Here’s the thing about tourist places: you don’t have to go there. This is especially true of destinations that do not have a monopoly, such as a prime religious spot or a one-of-a-kind experience. Goa, beautiful as it might be, has become one such place. Tirupati or Vaishno Devi will always attract visitors due to the faith associated with these places, which no other destination can offer. In the 1990s, Goa was a monopoly. It was the only destination where Indians could enjoy beaches, cheap alcohol, and parties at a relatively affordable price. It is remarkable that, despite India having thousands of kilometers of coastline, we have not been able to create another Goa in terms of the vibe.
Back then, equivalent international destinations were out of reach. International air travel was prohibitively expensive, visas hard to get, and no easy connectivity to good beach destinations anyway. Even for international tourists, Goa was on the map as a bohemian, hippie destination. Goa enjoyed this monopoly from the 1970s until the early 2010s. But as always, the world changed. Air travel became cheaper with low-cost carriers. Other Southeast Asian destinations developed significantly in terms of infrastructure, experiences, and connectivity. The internet arrived, making it easy to book tickets, hotels, and get visas. Social media helped people discover new places. The fear of foreign destinations turned into excitement.
Other tourist cities understood the competition and made tourist-friendly policies, keeping prices competitive. Goa and India thought differently. As things became competitive, a Goa taxi cartel emerged to exploit tourists, ignoring that being fleeced upon arrival is terrible marketing. India has long believed that anything nice, luxurious, and fun should be filled with guilt and thus regulated and taxed. This includes an eye-watering GST of 28% on rooms costing more than ₹7,500 (about $89). Quick checks for next weekend’s air tickets, Delhi-Goa and Delhi-Phuket, show roughly the same prices. Hotels are also similarly priced, with high-end ones even cheaper in Phuket. The roads in Phuket are better, the sea is bluer, the beaches are cleaner, the cabs are cheaper (and can be ordered via app), and the food and drink options are more plentiful. This is just Phuket. Thailand alone has several such destinations. There’s also Vietnam, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and the Indian favorite, Dubai. All these places offer holidays at around the same price as Goa but with a better and more exotic experience.
Domestic tourism still flows to Goa. It’s still unique for residents of Pune, Mumbai, or even Bangalore, where a group can rough it out in an Innova and drive to Calangute or even take a train. Goa will never be empty. However, Goa is losing high-end visitors. Not all tourists are the same. There’s a tourist from Virar who spends ₹500 a day, shacking up in cheap guesthouses and buying beer from retail stores, and another who spends ₹5,000 or even ₹20,000 a day. These higher-end tourists find it difficult to justify a Goa holiday when they have better options abroad. Not to mention the social “flex” of telling everyone, or posting on social media, about an international holiday (which is often the main point – telling others).
The point is not to criticize Goa, a place I love and associate with fond memories. Goans are wonderful people too. The point is to realize that Goa is out of sync with the world, as is India in terms of tourism. We need to change. Let’s consider some obvious, low-hanging fruit solutions to improve Goa.
1. End the Taxi Cartel – I’m not sure how much additional revenue the cartel makes compared to a free market, but it is causing enormous, lasting damage to Goa’s image. The world has changed dramatically. People are used to having a car and driver at their doorstep in five minutes, at a competitive price. The Goa taxi cartel is one of the worst reflections of Goa’s image. Is it worth it to fleece one rider and have 5,000 people see it on social media?
2. Lower the “Luxury Room” GST – Firstly, $89 per night is no longer the threshold for luxury. Secondly, you cannot tax a hotel room at 28% when other countries have much lower rates. Thailand reduced hotel VAT from 10% to 7% to encourage tourism. Why can’t we do the same, at least temporarily?
3. Think Beyond “Sunset Points” – Frankly, Indians don’t fully understand tourism for fun and relaxation; our default is pilgrimage. Goa as a place where people can let loose doesn’t sit well with us. As a result, we haven’t developed Goa to cater to those experiences. Goa lacks any major, must-visit attractions – no world-class amusement parks, massive beach clubs, or long, clean pedestrian boardwalks along the beach. Instead, we have tacky go-karting arenas and rickety shacks run by individual small-scale operators. Thailand also permits certain activities that will never be allowed in India already putting us at a disadvantage. Goa must offer more fun, in line with our local culture.
4. Improve Infrastructure – In parts of North Goa, traffic is worse than in Saki Naka, Mumbai. Roads are narrow, with hundreds of cars causing hour-long traffic jams, accompanied by incessant honking. Not quite a tropical beach holiday experience.
5. Address Boorish Behavior – Sorry to call out my own, but if Goa is to become a safe tourist destination for foreigners, they need to feel comfortable, particularly on the beaches. Gawking, staring, going into the sea without proper swimwear, littering, and loud behavior are issues with some domestic tourists, especially men. It’s a difficult problem. Applying stricter rules might be necessary to ensure a safe and pleasant environment for everyone.
Goa is a crown jewel of Indian tourism. Watching it deteriorate and face public criticism is heartbreaking. We must fix Goa. We must make it a service-oriented, tourist-focused, fun destination for low- to high-end tourists. This is essential not only for Goa and Goans but also for India and all Indians.